Rear End Gutted Out

I didn't think to start taking pictures before gutting it out.

There was a bedroom in the back with a queen bed, two nightstands, a folding table and enclosed cabinets/storage over the back window. This cabinet had lights for reading in bed and speakers for the stereo.

There were two built in closets on the left where the vent pipes are. The stereo was in a small cabinet under the window with a shelf to hold a small TV It was all in the way and had to go.

All Rotted Out

This is why there were 30 car air fresheners hanging throughout the camper.

No worries, it all gets cut out anyway.

Bathroom Gone

Well sort of. The water to the toilet is not hooked up because the valve failed. When Serenity is loaded the prop should just clear the shower wall. If not, I will cut a notch out so it does. My idea was to keep as much of the plumbing as possible to use if I do decide to take it to OSH. A curtain around the bathroom area would make it much better than a porta-potty and your own shower would be nice too.

I kind of have my doubts about being able to salvage the plumbing but who knows?

Serenity will go in tail first and will go to about the left edge of the stove.

Front Area

Lots of nice storage areas for tools, gas, oil, etc.

I will take out the table and chairs and probably the refigerator will be replaced with a smaller model or perhaps just an ice chest.

If I can get the propane system working, then I can check out the stove, furnace and water heater. All things for MUCH later.

The sofa folds down to make a bed, but the mechanisms were all bent up and not functioning. More for later.

Kitchen

If the plumbing and propane systems can be made functional, this could be a nice set up at OSH!

Or emergency "dog house" quarters if I do something bad....

110 V. Power

The old service panel had a 12v. converter/battery charger as well as the dirstribution circuits for the 110V and 12 V systems. The battery is on the tounge and appears to be in good shape.

The old panel had been abused with overloads to the 110V system and was destroyed.

I installed a new one with proper sized circuit breakers

Old Panel

This was under the bed originally, but was in the way. The good thing was that there was lots of extra wire, so I relocated it to this cabinet, minus the 110V section.

Now it just has the battery charger/converter and 12v distribution panel. I even took it apart and got the cooling fan running again.

Probably best to close the door to prevent "spray" in the middle of the night.

New Back Door Framing

This is the free replacement door I picked up. New style corners meant that the gaps had to be filled in.

A 2X4 and band saw did the trick. Screwed to the old frame in two directions and covered on the outside with some aluminum flashing.

New Back Door

The old one was completly rotted out from the window down. I could have just closed it off, but having a second door could be handy.

I was going to make a new door to fit the old frame, but found this door in a dumpster at an RV store and they gave it to me for a couple dozen doughnuts!

Sealed Up

It is not pretty, but should be weather tight.

Door Damage

I am pretty sure this was a break-in looking at the damage to the door and the frame. It also explains why they just replaced the whole thing. Probably insurance paid for it.

I did some un-bending, and some re-inforcing internally. It looks worse than it is, and it is much stronger now.

All Done

OK, it doesn't match, ask me if I care.

Stereo System

The old AM/FM cassette player from 1989 had no AM any more. I had this AM/FM CD player from a vehicle I traded off. The old cabinet was used to make this box. The wires were pulled back up the wall and tucked in behind the radio.

Now it is out of the way and I still have entertainment while working in the hangar.

Front Door

This was the better of the two doors. Upon closer inspection, the bottom was all rotted out and the bottom flashing was missing.

Time to build a new door.

Constructing a Door

I started with an off the shelf hollow core interior door. Then added a fiberglas panel to the outside for durabillity. The door was still thinner than the old one, so I used the pieces of fiberglass that were left over to cover the inside as well. Since I replaced the entire back door, I used an upright flashing from the old door to cut a replacement for the bottom of this door.

Front Door Installed

I managed to get a latch with the same lock code as the rear door, now one key unlocks both.

I left the window out, as I will have to cover all the windows to block light anyway.

I kept the window and frame in case I ever change my mind.

Besides, this was eaiser.

Open Door Policy

All screwed into place and working.

If you ever want to go hangar flying, come on in!

Weather Tight

I had to make a new striker for the new latch, as the one that came with it was too think.

If I really want, I think I could still get a screen door for this one. It was gone when I bought the camper.

The new rear door has a screen door that is in perfect shape except for the holes in the screen.

I will re-screen it when I get a chance.

Backwall Stripped

Removed the lights and the window and back access panel

Backwall Stripped

Inside view of stripped out back wall

Opened Up

Outside sheet aluminum removed except for flap at top, which will be used as flashing for the door.

Opened Up

Outside view of the removed sheet metal

Hole Finished

Here is a shot of the hole all finished.

Bad Rot

The leaking window and other areas rotted out a lot more wood than I initially realized. Even some of the floor has been affected.

I think I have a plan on how to replace the rotted wood and tie it into exisiting wood that is still sound.

Tarped Over

Inside shot of the tarp I installed to protect things while I gather materials and build a new door opening and wall. Matching a flat faced door with the double angled original wall will be an exercise in good flashing skills.

Tarped Over

Outside view of the tarp. Hopefully the wind won't blow too bad and we won't get any rain before I get the back wall rebuilt.

As of now, there are two options for a rear door. Double swinging 36" doors or a roll up door with custom built tracks so it will operate like a conventional garage door, not roll up.

There is not enough head room for a conventional door or a roll up door, but if I can build a custom track I may be able to use a roll up door and run it on tracks mounted directly to the ceiling. I have about 3 inches to work with.